A perfectly fitted fascia will serve its purpose and look pristine for a lifetime, which makes having your roofline installation performed correctly well worth your while.
Ideally, you want your fascia installation to be performed by an experienced professional, who knows what they’re doing. So even though you won’t necessarily be taking on the task yourself, it’s still useful to know how to fit a fascia – helping you ensure you’re getting the very best from the installation of your Deeplas fascia:
Preparation is everything, so as a first step, cut or pack your roof’s rafter feet to achieve a neat line, and if applying roof preserve, allow it to dry completely.
Should any sarking felt should be damaged, make sure it is replaced all the way back to the first batten, or to a minimum of 300mm.
Before beginning to fix the fascia in place, assess the substrate completely, to ensure the fascia is only installed on sound surfaces.
If your chosen fascia is white, it needs to be fitted at 600mm centres maximum (i.e. no greater than 600mm).
Alternatively, if your fascia is foiled, it needs to be fitted at 300mm centres maximum (i.e. no greater than 300mm).
For best results, use 2 fixings at each centre, ideally 200mm apart.
Plastic headed stainless steel nails are best. As a guide:
50mm long for 9mm fascia. (Ref: 1092)
65mm long for 16mm or 18mm fascias. (Ref: 1093)
It’s also important to know that roof tiles shouldn’t be solely supported by a fascia without an adequate backing board.
Remember, you’ll need to leave a small gap for expansion between fascia planks. Allow 10mm between each plank, and 5mm at each end (8mm for foiled fascias).
Once fitted, cover the exposed fascia ends with appropriate end caps and use a solvent based adhesive to secure.
While our fascias are notably robust and sturdy, no fascia can support the weight and purpose of a gutter and its brackets, therefore it’s essential to fit third fixing boards as a matter of course.
We recommend that when fitting Deeplas 9mm fascia boards, localised support is provided behind each gutter bracket, and when fitting Deeplas 16/18mm fascia boards every third fixing be fitted into structural timber (as a minimum).
For the best results, use stainless steel fixing screws longer than recommended by the gutter manufacturer (i.e. minimum 9, 16 or 18mm longer – dependent on your fascia choice).
Not if it’s done correctly. There are a number of ways to do the job, simply because box ends can be either jointed or single fitted.
Our recommendations for fitting fascias to gable ends are…
Take and check your measurements before cutting the fascia, soffit and corner moulding to the correct length, then position and secure as recommended above.
….for a wide board
Cut the fascia material to the correctly measured shape and size. It’s best to cut joints vertically if possible, as this helps minimise the risk of moisture seeping in. If you are cutting horizontally, make sure any joints are completely sealed.
Once the box end is fitted into the corner moulding, measure and cut the return from your fascia board, and fit in place using plastic headed screws.
Next, measure and cut the bargeboard soffit, before fitting and sealing.
Finally, glue the end cap to the box end and seal the fascia and joints appropriately with mastic.
Recommended fixings and best positions can vary, depending on the colour and thickness of different fascias. To help explain what fixings should be used when, here’s check list guide:
Colour |
Foiled |
White |
Foiled |
Foiled |
---|---|---|---|---|
Product |
Fascia |
Fascia |
Fascia |
Fascia |
Thickness |
9mm |
16mm/18mm |
9mm |
16mm/18mm |
Fixing |
Polytop |
Polytop |
Polytop |
Polytop |
Number |
2 |
2 |
2 |
2 |
Max fixing |
600 |
600 |
300 |
300 |
Support |
Plank |
Rafters/Plank |
Plank |
Rafters/Plank |
Support Gap |
Continuous |
600 |
Continuous |
600 |
Gap between |
10 |
10 |
16 |
16 |